Royal Robbins: The American Climber

Acclaimed writer David Smart illuminates the fascinating life of Royal Robbins - in all its soulful ambition, rivalry, and romance. ‘Royal Robbins’ chronicles his early years growing up as a latchkey kid in Southern California, the push and pull between being an aspiring banker or one of the original Camp 4 dirtbags, and his later decades as a father, husband, kayaker, and the trailblazing founder of the outdoor apparel company that bears his name. This intimate, colorful tour of climbing history covering Yosemite, the Tetons, the Gunks, the Alps, the United Kingdom, and more from the 1960s onward features star characters such as Liz Robbins - Robbins’s wife and a pioneering adventurer in her own right - Yvon Chouinard, John Harlin, Steve Roper, Warren Harding, Tom Frost, and Doug Tompkins.

An important addition to our knowledge of the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite and the development of the clean climbing ethos, ‘Royal Robbins’ sheds new light on an elemental figure of outdoor culture. This is Smart’s third climbing biography and second award winner.

Winner 2023 Banff Mountain Book Festival Mountain Literature Award.