Lhotse 1974: In Memoriam Tadeusz Piotrowski

Tadeusz Piotrowski (1939-1986) was one of the great Polish mountaineers specializing in winter ascents. These included Trollryggen (Norway, 1972, 1974, 1977), Noshaq (Afghanistan, 1973), Tirich Mir (Afghanistan, 1978), Rakaposhi (Pakistan, 1979), Distaghil Sar (Pakistan, 1980), and Api (Nepal, 1983). Jerzy Kukuczka stated that Piotrowski ‘was at the turn of the sixties and seventies the most outstanding Polish mountain climber, a specialist in winter climbs’.

The 1973 winter ascent of Noshaq by Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada was a pivotal moment. It was the first 7000m peak to be climbed in winter and opened the door to the Polish climbers for what could be possible. The following year Zawada organized the large, all-Polish Himalaya Expedition Lhotse 1974. This was the first attempt on an 8000m peak in winter. The expedition managed to reach 8250m despite being plagued by continual high winds and the death of their cameraman Stanislaw Latallo. Latallo died from exhaustion while descending in a storm with Piotrowski and one other climber. Later, controversy ensued surrounding Latallo’s death as some Polish mountaineers thought Piotrowski should have done more to help. The Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA), which had sponsored the expedition, found Piotrowski guilty and suspended him for two years. These findings put a long shadow on Piotrowski’s Himalayan career. Piotrowski was killed in 1986 while descending K2 with Jerzy Kukuczka following their first ascent of the Polish Line and successful summit.

This is primarily a photo book of the Lhotse 1974 expedition’s approach and climb together with Piotrowski’s letters and diary of the expedition and documents relating to Latallo’s death. I believe this is the only book on this expedition. In Polish, no English translation.